Les Allemands sont arrivés

by Dino Krafczyk

 

This is my latest diorama, called "Les Allemands sont arrivés" and it shows a Panzer II of the 7th Panzerdivision in France, 1940. Actually, what you see in the pictures is just a test fitting. The figures are fixed with blu tack and there are some minor touch ups to do. I also think about adding a few details, like a number at the door, some signposts, maybe a poster on the wall.
The test pics I shot came out so well that I decided to show them to you. But if you spot a little blu tack on the figure's feet or some flaws, it's okay, I'm aware of that..  ;)

Some time ago I bought the Alan model of a Panzer II Ausf.C. It was one of the rather unpleasant building experiences. Parts wouldn't fit too well, some parts, like the hooks that are located all over the vehicle, were detailed on one side, but completely flat on the other, the decals would break very easily, a LOT of flash and distorted parts, the individual track links that came with the model would not fit on the road wheels - either the road wheels are too thick or the space between the two rows of "teeth" on the tracks is too narrow - and other little annoyances tested my nerves.

Some modellers actually like that situation, because they love to fix, correct and scratchbuild a poor model into a good one or modify just any model they can get their hands on, I'm not like that! I try to fix the flaws with a good paintjob and weathering. I love to build my models out of the box, without spending lots of money on aftermarket products that are, imho, WAY too expensive. And, by building OOB, I try to boycott that.  It's probably some sort of rebellious spirit that drives me.. But don't get me wrong: if I just discribed your philosophy, please, don't be offended. If you like to add value to your model with expensive aftermarket products and you're happy with it - fine! It's just not my philosophy..  ;D

Anyway, my attempt to build the Panzer strictly OOB failed because of the weapon barrels. They simply weren't usable. Not only were the parts distorted beyond all means, the 2cm cannon barrel also wasn't correct for an Ausf. C. So I spent a few bucks and bought a metal barrel for the 2cm cannon, the MG34 barrel came from the spares box.

After a lot of patience, filling, sanding, painting and dusting with MIG pigments, the end result actually looks quite pleasing, I think.
I decided that my Panzer II would have been in use during the "Blitzkrieg" campaign in France and I thought of a little scene with the gunner and the tank commander checking their maps on their way to Dunkerque. (Figures by Dragon)

An old farmer stands in front of the door to his property, the wall surrounding it and the power pole already showing signs of destruction from the "Blitz". The cruelties of the last world war still fresh in his mind, he looks at the German soldiers and he might think, what I chose to be the title of the diorama: "Les Allemands sont arrivés", the Germans have arrived. But look at his face! Is there a smirk?! Or might he think something else, including words like "merde" and "bâtards", who knows?!?  ;)
(Figure by MasterBox)

The diorama basis is a complete, vacu formed set by Mini Art (Wall with base, item nr.36035), I added some rubble, some grass and the fence and power pole are from a Tamiya set. I used enamels from Revell for the painting and artist oils for washings and wooden parts. An old tyre from the spares box gives some life to the backside of the wall. The boards are the unevitable wooden sticks you can scrounge at a major fast food restaurant..  ;)

The tarp that is draped over the tyre was made from tissue paper soaked with diluted white glue. When still wet, it will attach to any surface and will look very much like cloth. When dry, it's almost as solid as thin styrene and can be painted and weathered. Looks convincing, doesn't it?!

Well, that's it for this time. I hope you like what you see. Comments and constructive criticism are always welcome.

Cheers  :)

Chow time!

By Dino Krafczyk

Here are some pics of a diorama I made some time ago. Since then I found a better technique to paint the oak leaf pattern and figures in general. But I'm still proud of this work and would like to share it with you.

The SdKfz 222 and the field kitchen are from Tamiya, the infantry figures are from Dragon.

The antenna is a thin E-guitar string. I always use guitar strings for antennas. This thing won't break, but you might poke it into your eye if you don't take care!

Doesn't the stew look tasty?! ;)

Btw: I made the fence using the wooden sticks you get at McDonald's to stir the coffee. Very useful stuff for modelbuilders..

Thanks for watching. I hope you liked it. And, in case I got you hungry: enjoy your meal! :)

Dynasty Models 1/9 U.S. 82nd Airborne

by Dino Krafczyk

Okay, this is my first attempt ever to write for a blog. I hope I don't screw up too bad.. ;)

I found this nice resin bust of an U.S. paratrooper in the special offers corner of my local hobby shop. Normally resin products, especially that large, are quite expensive, but I got this one for 2€ - too good to be true!! It was made by Dynasty Models, a korean company, and the quality is superb. I like the expression on the guy's face. Somewhat heroic and somewhat ticked off..

First I washed the resin with a mild soap and lukewarm water. There are chemicals or something in the resin that will make the paint come off very easily if you don't wash it first!

Then I painted the face. Normally I would have started with a light flesh tone enamel base colour, but the bust comes in the typical, light beige resin tone that is just perfect. I applied a rather thick coat of a good quality burnt sienna oil colour and immediately began to carefully wipe it off again with a wide sable brush, cleaning the brush with a piece of tissue paper between wipes. The most important thing with this technique is to not use any thinner or turpentine on the brush!!! Otherwise there will be just a big mess.

When done correctly, the oil paint will leave only a subtle and transluscent coat on the raised areas of the face where the base colour will show through and it will stay dark and opaque in the recessed areas. After that the face should already look quite impressive and have a lot of depth. After drying (which may take a long time!) I painted the beard shadow with a subtle coat of dark umber oils, let that dry, and then followed a very careful drybrush run with a flesh tone. The cheek bones were painted with the most subtle coat of red oil paint and can barely be seen, but that's exactly what I wanted. The same red colour was used for the lips.

As you can see, I use the word "subtle" a lot. The steps I discribed above can easily be overdone and then the face will look scruffy or like a clown! So subtlety is the key to success..

After having painted the eyes, eyebrows and hair the face was finished and I painted the uniform and the helmet using enamel colours. For the uniform I used a light khaki tone and the shading was done with olive drab oil colour that I mixed with white to match the tone of the khaki. Since the bust is quite a large scale I used less contrast than I would on a figure in 1/35 or 1/72. Then followed a drybrush with a lighter khaki tone and the details were painted. The helmet was done using dark olive drab, drybrushed with a light olive tone.

That was my first time to paint something in a large scale and I'm very pleased with the end result. I hope I could give you some hints on how to paint a face with oil colours and maybe you wanna try it yourself. I only wish I would have taken some pictures during the painting process.

Maybe next time... :)